Biniagual, a hidden corner of Mallorca

Here’s a short walk to a place many visitors still overlook: the little llogaret of Biniagual. It lies less than four kilometres from Binissalem, among vines and traditional crops. We like to arrive on foot so we can watch the landscape change before the first houses come into view.

In Mallorca, a llogaret is a small settlement that belongs to a larger municipality and has no town hall of its own. Sometimes it’s only a handful of houses, but it has a character all its own. Biniagual, part of Binissalem, is a good example.

The origins of Biniagual

Before James I conquered Mallorca, Biniagual was an Islamic-period farmstead with market gardens. When the island was divided up after the conquest, it passed to the Viscount of Béarn. Olives, vines and cereals were grown here over the years. In the 16th century the hamlet had barely six houses, and plague contributed to its depopulation.

People returned to the hamlet, and farming and livestock returned with them. It stood where the Camí de Muro met the road from Binissalem to Sencelles, which explains why such a small place was once so busy. Travellers sometimes stayed here before continuing across the island. A Guardia Civil post was established in the mid-19th century, and the former barracks still stand in the middle of the hamlet.

Winegrowing became a major part of life here until phylloxera, an insect that devastated vineyards across much of Europe, destroyed Biniagual’s vines too. People tried to keep farming with almond and fig trees, sheep and pigs. Gradually the houses emptied, and by the mid-20th century the hamlet was largely in ruins.

The restoration of the private estate began in 1968, with Klaus Graf and his family. The houses were restored, farming resumed and vines were planted again. The estate began making its own wines in 2005. The council records around 34 hectares of vines, alongside other traditional crops.

What to see on a short stroll through Biniagual

The hamlet has around fourteen houses, a chapel, the old winery and the wine shop. We like to slow down as we arrive and notice the stone façades and wooden doors. The Gran Enciclopèdia de Mallorca records that the oratory dedicated to the Immaculate Conception was blessed in 1734.

The road through the hamlet is open to the public, something Binissalem residents campaigned for over the years. The houses and estate facilities have their own access arrangements, and part of the estate is used for events. To make the stroll a little longer, we can follow the surrounding lanes past the vines and look for a fine lledoner, or hackberry tree.

How to get to Biniagual from Binissalem

From Binissalem we can drive, cycle or walk. It’s about ten minutes by car, and you can look for a permitted parking spot nearby. Our walking route is 3.7 km and about 50 minutes one way. Allow time for the return if you’re walking back the same way.

The walk follows a road shared with vehicles. In our experience there is more traffic at the beginning and it usually eases farther along. The surface is suitable for a pushchair, but bear in mind that you’ll be walking on the road. Along the way we pass crops and vineyards and might spot pigs, horses, sheep or hens.

Start of the walk. Coming into Binissalem from Palma, you’ll reach a set of traffic lights before leaving the village. The street to the left leads into the centre. We turn right a little farther on, where Biniagual is signposted.

After turning, you’ll see two streets. Take the left one, Camí Vell de Biniagual, and pass beneath the motorway bridge. Keep following the same road. You’ll know you’ve arrived when the surface becomes cobbled and the first houses and gardens appear.

Biniagual winery and wine shop

We can stroll through the hamlet independently. To stop at the wine shop or arrange a winery tour and tasting, check the Finca Biniagual website. The shop also sells produce from the estate, such as olive oil and preserves. Beyond the estate’s facilities, there are few services in the hamlet.